NEAR THE MEXICAN BORDER in Brownsville, the Birders Highway, U.S. Highway 281, begins its long journey to the Canadian border. From the intersection of US-77 and TX-48, it rolls west for about 40 miles as the Military Road. Once it turns north, at South Cage Boulevard in Las Milpas, it generally remains on a straight course for over 1,000 miles.

The Military Road lies entirely within the Lower Rio Grande Valley (LRGV), which is one of the most species-rich birding areas in North America. The boundaries of this chapter lie entirely within the LRGV, from South Padre Island (SPI) on the Gulf to Falcon SP, some 145 miles west. The Rio Grande forms the southern boundary. The northern boundary generally runs west from the Gulf’s Lower Coast north of Laguna Atascosa NWR to Edinburg before angling northwest as it follows US-83 to Falcon SP.

I do not think it’s possible to exaggerate just how good the birding is in the LRGV. A birding excursion beginning at the Rio Grande near Falcon SP will take birders southeast to a high, sweeping bluff overlooking the Rio Grande (historically an area with a chance of seeing flying Red-billed Pigeons and singing Audubon’s Orioles), into dry thornscrub, then to a subtropical environment, and to the Gulf with its myriad of interesting gulls, terns, and shorebirds on SPI. The lush vegetation along the Gulf and Rio Grande provide abundant food, water, and habitat for over 500 bird species that have been sighted in the LRGV, some of which are not seen anywhere else in the U.S. Of the migratory species, most of them use the Texas Coast/LRGV area as a critical stopover.

The Valley Specialties attract thousands of birders annually and, being so close to Mexico, seeing a rarity (such as a Bare-throated Tiger Heron or a Bat Falcon) that might stray across the Rio Grande is always a possibility. Or a powerful storm in the Gulf might provide birders with pelagic species that may not be seen elsewhere as the Birders Highway begins winding north.

In addition to the staggering variety of bird species, nature lovers can get lucky in the LRGV and spot a sea turtle, an alligator, a nilgai, an endangered ocelot, or an elusive jaguarundi. Over 300 species of butterflies have been documented in the Valley as well as over 1,100 species of plants. Every visit to the LRGV is a unique, unforgettable experience.

 

 

EVERY CHAPTER LISTS BIRDING HOTSPOTS AND OTHER LOCATIONS OF INTEREST:

 

FAVORITE HOTSPOT LOCATIONS

[A] Bentsen-Rio Grande VSP, 2800 S Bentsen Palm Dr, Mission, TX 78572, 956-584-9156.

[B] Edinburg Scenic Wetlands, 714 S Raul Longoria Rd, Edinburg, TX 78539, 956-381-9922.

[C] Estero Llano Grande SP, 3301 S International Blvd, Weslaco, TX 78596, 956-565-3919.

[D] Falcon State Park, 146 Park Road 46, Roma, TX 78584, 956-848-5327.

[E] Laguna Atascosa NWR, 22817 Ocelot Rd, Los Fresnos, TX 78566, 956-748-3607.

[F] Old Hidalgo Pumphouse, 902 S 2nd St, Hidalgo, TX 78557, 956-843-8686.

[G] Quinta Mazatlan, 600 Sunset Dr, McAllen, TX 78503, 956-681-3370.

[H] Resaca de la Palma SP, 1000 New Carmen Ave, Brownsville, TX 78521, 956-350-2920.

[I] Sabal Palm Sanctuary, 8435 Sabal Palm Rd, Brownsville, TX 78521, 956-541-8034.

[J] Salineño Wildlife Pres, DeWind’s Yard, Salineño, TX 78585. % Valley Land Fund, 2400 N 10th St, Ste A, McAllen, TX 78501, 956-686-6429.

[K] Santa Ana NWR, 3325 Green Jay Rd, Alamo, TX 78516, 956-784-7500.

[L] Santa Margarita Ranch, santamargaritaranchtx@gmail.com.

[M] Shrimp Basin Bridge/(Jaime J. Zapata Memorial Boat Ramp, No visitor center or contact info. Located on TX-48 between Port Isabel and Brownsville.

[N] SPI Birding & Nature Cntr, 6801 Padre Blvd, SPI, TX 78597, 956-761-6801.

[O] SPI Convention Cntr, No visitor center or contact info. Physical address: 7355 Padre Blvd, SPI, TX 78597.

[P] University of Texas/Fort Brown Resaca, No visitor center or contact info. University is near

the Rio Grande on east side of Int’l Blvd. View resacas on W University Blvd.

[Q] Valley Nature Center, 301 S Border Ave, Weslaco, TX 78599, 956-969-2475.

 

BEYOND BIRDING LOCATIONS

[1] Donna’s Town Square/Donna Hooks Fletcher Museum: 129 S 8th St, Donna, TX 78537, 956-464-9989.

[2] Historic Brownsville Museum, East 6th St, Brownsville, TX 78520, 956-548-1313.

[3] Old Hidalgo Pumphouse Museum, 902 S 2nd St, Hidalgo, TX 78557, 956-843-8686.

[4] Palo Alto Battlefield National Historical Park, 7200 Paredes Line Rd, Brownsville, TX 78526, 956-549-8511.

[5] Port Isabel Lighthouse State Historic Site, 421 E Queen Isabella Blvd, Port Isabel, TX 78578, 956-943-0735.

[6] Shops near the Mexican border, southern terminus of International Boulevard / FM 1015.

 

#

 

So you’re in the LRGV for the first time. Where do you begin? If you’re a newbie birder, there are probably species in the LRGV that you’ve never even heard of, like Groove-billed Ani or Bronzed Cowbird. If you’re a fairly good birder – whom I consider an Avid or an Alpha* – you have probably done some research and know there are many species in the LRGV that you’d like to add to your life list.

(*Alphas are birders who will drop everything to chase a rare bird. Getting proper sleep, eating decently, and the cost of travel become irrelevant. Seeing the rarity becomes the most important goal in their lives.

My friend Olaf Danielson is an Alpha, and he’s one of the top birders in North America. His real-life adventures make me shake my head in disbelief. He has been chased by a grizzly bear, dodged bullets (right here in the LRGV!), and eaten a whole raw fish when he was lost so he’d have enough energy to find his way out of a wilderness. He’s roared out of his driveway on a multi-day adventure just 20 minutes after getting a Rare Bird Alert, seeking a life bird over 1,500 miles from his home. He’s survived seasickness, airsickness, homesickness, and gastro-intestinal sickness from eating God-only-knows-what. He documents his adventures in his memoirs, Boobies, Peckers, and Tits. Olaf is a true Alpha.)

I consider myself an Avid. I see nothing wrong with staring at the same bird for 30 minutes or longer, or birding in strange places like cemeteries or behind buildings near the dumpsters. Scott and I have left our room well before sunrise to be in a good location at first light, and we’ve birded well after sunset in search of nocturnal species. When we’re birding, we usually eat our meals outside – preferably near water or interesting wooded areas – so we don’t miss any exciting species, and our vehicle often becomes our bird blind.

I had been a birder for about 35 years when I first visited the LRGV, and the first birding hotspot I visited with Scott and my sister was Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park. I will never forget standing in one spot in a picnic area that sloped down to open water and recording life birds as fast as I could write: Ladder-backed Woodpecker, Green Jay, Altamira Oriole, Hooded Oriole, Least Grebe, and Neotropic Cormorant – all while wondering what species was drowning out every other sound around me. I soon spotted a few Plain Chachalacas, yet another life bird, which were creating the cacophony and making it hard to even think. Since that time, the LRGV has claimed a part of my birder’s soul.

If you are at the southern terminus of the Birders Highway, you must decide if you want to see a few local birding hotspots in or near Brownsville, turn east toward the Gulf, drive northeast toward South Padre Island (SPI) and Laguna Atascosa NWR, or start west along the Birders Highway. The good news is that it’s hard to find a birding location – especially during spring migration – that won’t keep you busy and happy. The bad news is that deciding which hotspots you want to visit can be agonizing.

Scott and I have a routine in the LRGV that works well for us. We usually try to visit two hotspots each day. Weather, day of the week, and birding-walk schedules are a few factors that determine our daily schedules. Some birding sites are always open while others are only open during limited hours and days. We also try to see one new site with each LRGV visit, and we inevitably visit our favorite hotspots more than once.

We can’t visit every hotspot on my Favorites list (detailed later) every time we stay in the Valley; sometimes we just don’t have enough time to see them all. My top must-see, not-to-be-missed sites are Estero Llano Grande, the SPI Convention Center, Santa Ana NWR, and the Shrimp Bridge. But no doubt, if you ask 20 birders for their top LRGV hotspots, you would get 20 different lists.

 

 

PARTIAL LIST OF THE LRGV SPECIALTIES:

 

THE VALLEY SPECIALTIES

The following species usually occur every year in the LRGV, and most of them are unlikely to be seen along the Birders Highway north of the Valley, although they can be seen occasionally in Texas. The species listed are only a small sampling of what can be seen in the Valley, especially during migration. In most cases, each species can be seen in multiple locations in addition to the noted sites.

Common: Easy or usually easy to find in the right habitat

Uncommon: Not always found, even in the right habitat

Rare: Is found annually but shouldn’t be expected, even in the right habitat

* Not typically seen during the winter

SOI: Species of interest

Altamira Oriole – common; Sabal Palm Sanctuary, Estero Llano Grande SP, Santa Ana NWR, Edinburg Scenic Wetlands, Old Hidalgo Pumphouse, and Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley SP are reliable sites.

Brown Jay – a very rare Valley Specialty seen sporadically west of Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley SP. Currently, Santa Margarita Ranch (limited access) provides your best chance of a sighting.

Clay-colored Thrush – uncommon resident that can often be seen in Estero Llano Grande SP’s Tropical Zone or in the brush around the lakes at Santa Ana NWR. Can appear at Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley SP’s feeders or at water drips. Behavior is robin-like.

Common Pauraque – common in the right habitat; very difficult to see during the day in scrubby areas on leaf debris. At dusk, it often calls and hunts for flying insects in open areas, along trails, or along the side of roads. Look for its red eyes shining in headlights or flashlights. Usually seen at Estero Llano Grande SP, Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley SP, Falcon SP, or southern areas of the LRGV north to Laguna Atascosa NWR.

Gray Hawk – a Valley Specialty that barely comes into the LRGV from Mexico. Seen soaring or perched in mesquite, cottonwood, or willow near water. May be seen at Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley SP, Estero Llano Grande SP, Laguna Atascosa NWR, and Santa Ana NWR.

Great Kiskadee – common species in the LRGV; can be found near water in both natural and residential areas. Should be fairly easy to see at Laguna Atascosa NWR, Falcon SP, Estero Llano Grande SP, Santa Ana NWR, and Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley SP.

Green Parakeet – common, especially near the Rio Grande. Usually nests in palm trees, primarily in urban areas, throughout the LRGV. Most active at dawn and dusk, but small flocks flying overhead are fairly reliable during the day currently at Old Hidalgo Pumphouse. Currently nests at the University of Texas in Brownsville and Old Hidalgo Pumphouse. May be seen at any time and at any location from Brownsville to Mission.

*Groove-billed Ani – uncommon in the right habitat, usually brushy areas. Except for the bill, it can be mistaken for a grackle. Migrates south for the winter, usually arriving back to the LRGV in April. Often seen at Resaca de la Palma SP, Laguna Atascosa NWR, Estero Llano Grande SP, Falcon SP, and  Santa Ana NWR.

*Hook-billed Kite – a rare Valley Specialty usually seen soaring overhead. The towers at Santa Ana NWR and Bentsen-Rio Grande SP are good locations to look for it in spring and summer.

Least Grebe – uncommon to fairly common in different years. Usually stays near the vegetation at the edge of small freshwater ponds but can be seen in flooded ditches. May be seen throughout the LRGV from along the road to Boca Chica in wet years, Estero Llano Grande SP, Santa Ana NWR, Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley SP, and Edinburg Scenic Wetlands.

 

 

SAMPLE OF A HOTSPOT:

 

Estero Llano Grande State Park [Admission]: This is my favorite hotspot, and we are drawn to it even if we arrive in the LRGV late in the day. If there’s enough daylight, we wander the roads in the Tropical Zone before catching the spring-time Lesser Nighthawk show on the Visitor Center Deck. Next, it’s time to start listening for the Common Pauraques when they begin hunting for flying insects as the night descends.

Estero Llano Grande SP opened in June 2006 and within first year recorded its first rarity, a Northern Jacana. It is usually found at or near the top of the eBird hotspots for Texas. A large wetlands area, the Tropical Zone, Alligator Lake, and Camino de Aves – an arid area – attract some 350 species every year to the park’s over 200 subtropical acres. Naturalist walks are an excellent way to introduce a LVRG newbie to the Valley Specialties and join other birders in possibly spotting a rarity.

There are five miles of trails. The paved Tropical Zone Trails wind thru the former RV Park and are .74 mile in length. This is usually the area where we see Clay-colored Thrush. One morning at sunrise, we saw a tree full of Mississippi Kites here. The Indigo Blind, on the south side of the Tropical Zone, can yield Buff-bellied Hummingbird, Plain Chachalaca, and Altamira Oriole. Bobcat and javelina are also possible. Check the list in the blind for recent sightings.

The feeders and Viewing Deck at the Visitor Center can have interesting species. Least Grebe is always possible. At sunset, we never tire of standing on the deck of the Visitor Center in late April to watch the spectacle of Lesser Nighthawks in a feeding frenzy over the nearby pond. The feeders near the building attract hummingbirds, but Scarlet Tanager and other passerines are always possible. Purple Martins soar around their nearby house. Red-crowned Parrot can fly overhead, and we have seen them briefly stop to check for food.

The 1.16-mile Wader’s Trail wanders around wetlands, ponds, brush, and grassland. Shorebirds and wading birds congregate here, and this is the only area where I’ve seen Tropical Kingbird. Lesser Goldfinch, Yellow-headed Blackbird, and Yellow-billed Cuckoo have all allowed us close-up views, and Gull-billed Tern may be seen over the ponds.

The .94-mile Camino de Aves Trail is a surprising contrast to the tropical and wetlands areas. Cactus and mesquite thrive in this dry area, so expect to find more desert-favoring species. We also saw a large feral hog here!

The Alligator Lake Trail is only .1-mile long, but it ends at an Observation Deck with unobstructed views of the lake. The trail to the observation deck is never far from Alligator Lake, so you can try and spot an American alligator. We often see Yellow-crowned Night Heron here, and the debris along the trail often camouflages a resting Common Pauraque.

Daily species counts near 100 are not unusual at this park, especially during migration. SOI include Great Kiskadee, Bronzed Cowbird, Groove-billed Ani, and Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet.

Walks begin at the Visitor Center where maps, gifts, and snacks are available. The Visitor Center’s hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Check here for nature walks and tram schedules. Admission can be paid in the Visitor Center or at the drop-box near the parking lot.

Getting there: From I-2 in Weslaco, drive south for 3 miles on FM-1015/International Blvd. Turn left and drive into the parking lot; watch for sign. The park is at the first sharp corner on International Blvd.

 

 

EXCERPT FROM THE MISSISSIPPI FLYWAY BONUS SECTION:

 

MY Special HOTSPOTS in the Mississippi Flyway

 

I IMPATIENTLY CHECK MY calendar each year, counting the days and weeks until the busiest part of my year as a tax practitioner will end. Before that day (usually April 15) is behind me, I can only sporadically steal a small amount of time each week to feed my birding addiction. However, I still feel that I’m very lucky to live in an area where rarities might appear at any time.

I live in the northwestern corner of the Mississippi Flyway, which just happens to be the most diversified area in the Flyway. The Flyway’s western border is roughly the Mississippi River with the Appalachian Mountains forming the eastern border. The Flyway slightly merges with the Central Flyway in Texas and North Dakota, but the Gulf is primarily the southern border before it fans north in Canada. Over 325 bird species make the round-trip annually between the Gulf and Canada.

About two hours north of my home is one of my favorite hotspots: The Sax-Zim Bog, where the Bog’s best birding begins as the fall migration ends. It lies at the edge of a southern dip in the Taiga and is famous for winter Taiga migrants as well as year-round residents normally found in the Taiga. In the Sax-Zim Bog, Great Gray Owl, Canada Jay, and Boreal Chickadee are year-round residents and help keep birders happy throughout the winter until the spring migration begins again.

To my south is another great hotspot: Crex Meadows, where the spring migration always begins earlier than where I live 100 miles north. I’ve watched Trumpeter Swans staking their territory by sitting and sunning themselves on the still-frozen Phantom Lake. During another sunny spring visit, Phantom Lake was covered with rapidly melting ice and a foraging flock of Snow Buntings, feeding on seeds as they migrated north. A trip to Crex Meadows never disappoints me.

Between the Sax-Zim Bog and Crex Meadows is another birding wonderland: Western Lake Superior, which funnels migrants to a narrow point where they continue their migrations on or near Minnesota Point and Wisconsin Point. Birds that are unwilling to cross the largest freshwater body in the world must fly around it, concentrating numerous species during the spring and fall migrations into the westernmost point of Lake Superior. In addition, Western Lake Superior often hosts rarities throughout the year. Gyrfalcon and Ivory Gull have thrilled birders by staying for several weeks during past winters and, every year, interesting gulls, jaegers, and scoters are expected after summer’s end.

The Birders Highway is a few hours west of my home, but I have many hotspots that keep me busy birding in my special corner of the Mississippi Flyway.